Climbing at Railay

Well I have heaps to pass on about our 5 days at the limestone paradise of Railay, Ton Sai near Krabi, but don’t have time to write it at this moment. I have also done 5 days in Bangkok now and wow what a crazy awesome place. It was Thai New Year (Sangkran?). Anyway I’m just posting a few teaser photos then writing to each later. 

NOTE: I also posted our last writings about Bhutan, with photos below

         

The Khao-San new year party zone on the 3rd day in a row! New Year is a water festival so everything from a water pistol to a water tanker gets used. Flour paste of some sort is the other main ingredient.

Travelling East, Travel sickness and thank goodness no more chilli, cheese and rice

With the trek finished and filed into the memories catalogue we jumped into the suspension-less Toyota Hilux and headed east to the Bumthang Valley. A 250km of continuous one lane pot holed, hair-pinned bends, 3 mountain passes and cliff edges. A hair raising journey at the best of times even more so with the random large trucks going both ways. I think Douglas will return with significantly less hair. Douglas counted the bends, 16 on average per km for the whole 250km.

 

It is hard to describe the fun of travel to the east in Bhutan, especially if you suffer from motion sickness. Each of the three high passes we had to cross got steeper as we headed east. The steeper they got the more drastic the bends in the road got. We essentially turned each 25km of distance into 70km of driving by traversing across the hills continuously. It took 2 hours to get from valley bottom to mountain top and 2 hours down again. So that’s like doing the Rimutaka hill road out of Wellington or the Takaka hill road for 4 hours three times in a row. Joy!

 

The three valleys we visited were all full of history. All had been peopled for at least 1500 years. However, the great Buddhist migration to Bhutan happened in the 14th and 15th centuries and the huge fortresses and religious centres almost all appeared in the 17th century. In the 17th century a leader united Bhutan again Tibet and this structure resulted in the British Raj abandoning it’s efforts to establish control in the 19th century. The Bhutanese claimed to have kicked the British butts in a short war. I think they got fed up crossing passes at 4000m on donkey trails. We visited the many monasteries and fortresses they are truely spectacular!

   

Of course getting to the Dzong when built accross a river can be interesting

Luckily they are building a new bridge in Bhutan style!

 

The first night was spent in Yangkhil hotel, a new hotel built into the side of the very steep valley. With views across to the Trongsa Dzong. The candles in the room were either going to prove to be a considerate attempt to add some romance or an ominous sign. The power went out at 7pm and we ate our dinner by candle light. It obviously happens on a semi regular basis.

Life reverts to medieval standards as your leave Thimphu and gets more so the further east you go. Weaving cloth for clothes on traditional looms, guiding oxen to plough fields for rice and maize and grind stones to make flour run by water wheels were standard in Bumthang.

  

Of course you have to mend the roads

And hold the roof on

Many have switched from growing rice to potatoes as these are easier to grow in the colder areas and fetch better prices in Bhutan and India. However, to protect your potato crop you must sleep in a tiny raised hut with woven bamboo sides and roof and chase away any wild boars that come to eat your potatoes. You are not allowed to kill them as the Departments of Agriculture and Conservation protect them. So you best plan appears to be to tie a large number of old petrol cans to a top of a pole in the middle of your fields and run long strings back to you hut so that you can bang the cans together which will of course stop the pigs eating your potatoes. The good news is that you only have to do that for 5 months of the year.

The pig watching hut is the small one dead centre left-right in the photo

But there is always time for archery

Farewell to Bhutan

I was hoping to be able to post the final Bhutan blog from Bhutan but alas we’ve ran out of time so here’s a random blog I wrote a while a go whilst Douglas was busy chin-waging with Nigel. Actually it was written purely as an excuse to add some of my favorite photos, hope you like them.

 

We’ll post the last few days of Bhutan from Bangkok.

     

 

So here are some general pontifications on the bad, the good and the down right crazy of Bhutan.

 

 

The good so far

 

The people look serious until you smile at them and then they reply with a bigger and brighter smile. The children look like dolls when they wear the Gho’s and Kira’s “micro humans” Douglas calls them, they are soooo cute!

 

   

I haven’t heard any swear words or arguments and certainly no road rage since arriving in Bhutan, which is amazing considering their driving ability – or lack of.

 

North Face seems to be the unofficial national dress as every second person seems to wear a North Face puffer jacket. I certainly feel less conspicuous since I bought mine although I still get stared at quite a lot, Douglas recons it’s the blond hair but I’m sure it’s my charismatic personality shining through the NF jacket.

 

Monks with cell phones, one of those lovely juxtapositions.

 

   

 

Amazingly painted houses although the jury is still out regarding the phallic images they love to paint on the exterior walls.

 

The dogs that sleep all day and bark all night. They hang out in packs and like the people all seem to be very gentle natured. Lynne must never! ever! visit Bhutan as she would immediately have about 100 adopted dogs to look after as would I had I not been traveling with the less of a sucke Douglas.

 

 

The less than good so far:

 

The prolific littering!! Even on the trek we were haunted by the endless presence of plastic water bottles and crisps and sweet wrappers. Consumerism has come to Bhutan and they haven’t figured out that it’s all better of in the bin!

 

The Taxi drivers! Apparently in the Bhutanese form of Buddhism there are three hells for different types of sins. I’m pretty confident that one of them has been reserved for taxi drivers.

 

The dogs or to be more specific the lack of care for them. They are sacred in Bhutanese culture as they are the guides that will lead them to the afterlife. But obviously they don’t have to be well fed or healthy to be a successful guide. Most if not all are desperately in need of a good vet and a decent meal once a day, something I don’t think I’ll ever get used to.

Driving in Bhutan (or as DT thinks more appropriate, passengering in Bhutan)

 Driving in Bhutan really needs a special mention the drivers are the least aggressive but are amongst the most incompetent I’ve ever come across and that’s having witnessed Auckland drivers in action. Having said that, so far traffic accidents are relatively few and no one seems to mind the chaos caused by the lack of indicating and sudden stopping in the middle of the road.

 

When we first arrived I tried to figure out the difference in the road rules between NZ and Bhutan and soon decided that the Bhutanese just don’t bother too much with a road code. For example:

 

· The give way rule, it’s simple, if it’s bigger than you give way to it.

· Driving in the middle of the road is preferred but if you have to pull over due to oncoming traffic drivers will move to the left… most of the time.

· I have yet to see a cop car, although I have seen a couple of cops on a motor bike. I suppose they put the arrested on the handle bars? I did hear a lovely story that a cop had to hire a taxi to chase down a suspected crim.

· If the car in front is in the way just beep at it and it’ll pull over.

· Overtaking on blind corners, at cross roads and in other dangerous situations is quite normal and must be expected in order to avoid head on collisions.

 

And that’s my random blog.

 

 

Oh by the way feel free to post us a message even if it’s a quick “read your blog and it sucks” as it’s quite nice to see who’s having a squiz.

 

 Keren

 

Jumolhari Trek

Hello again, Internet spots have eluded us for over a week now. This tends to happen when you head into the more remote areas of the Himalaya. Well remote as in far from civilisation but P1 (Pony Highway 1 was actually a very busy track).

The trek was to climb 3 days to the base camp (4080m) of Jumolhari (7350m) and then on the 4th day cross the “Bonte La” pass (4900m) over to another valley and cover the distance back to the road end in only 2 days going down. This route is normally an 8 day event with the 4th day as a rest day. We had of course scoffed at a rest day and decided the down could be done faster … so we had 6 days.

Our team was myself, Keren, Richard (Keren’s dad) 62, Nigel (friend of Richard, ex amazing mountaineer) 68, myself, Namgay (Porter), Damcho (Guide), Tashi (cook), Pony driver’s son, Camp helping hand, Pony driver and 10 ponys. Richard and Nigel didn’t make the attached photo.

We knew we were heading UP and there was a good chance that we would get some altitude issues. We knew that it would be cold, we knew we had to cover about 70km each way and gain/lose about 2500m both ways. We obviously thought this was all too easy so … I decided to get food poisoning the morning we started, didn’t sleep and vomited several times by the 8:30am start. Nigel caught the flu and gave himself a chest infection, and Keren caught a cold so that she couldn’t breathe through her nose just so she didn’t feel left out.

So with perfect skies and the team in tip top condition we made for camp 1 at 2800m. Camp 1 was an easy 18 km mostly on dirt tracks. It was all gradually up (funny that) and some others we passed on the track were taking it far more casually than we were, suit and umbrella anyone? I felt CRAP and the call was made that if I didn’t eat a good breakfast the next morning, I would have to return to town and miss the trek.

Day 2 to camp 2 (3400m) was 22km of nasty walking on river rocks, luckily I was able to hold breakfast down and given the OK to carry on. The day was meant to be 9 hours, we knocked it off in 7 hours but the thinner air was starting to make itself felt. 7 hours of up hill and dodgy footing was not fun, but we got our first sight of Jumolhari at camp 2. Oh and we saw our first yak at the camp site.

Day 3 to base camp Jumolhari (4080m) was a much easier track as we left the dense forest behind and climbed above the tree line into the more barren valleys surrounded by snowy peaks. Nigel described us as ‘well oiled slugs’ which i thought was a very telling description of our progress. Luckily we were all acclimatising well and I was eating properly again. We met 2 other small tourist groups each with 10 ponys and 5 helpers at base camp. To try and help our altitude preparation myself and Nigel climbed another 500m that evening into a side valley towards the glaciers and the base of Jumolhari. The ruined monasteries on the large rocks and the peaks around us made for stunning views.

Day 4 we headed to the Bonte La pass. All our fingers and toes were crossed as the snows had not yet receeded much and the groups that had tried to make the trip a few days previously turned back. The frozen lakes, yaks and metre deep snow on the pass made it a beautiful days tramping but also meant we failed to cross the pass . So back to base camp we headed puffing like steam trains and camped down to another cold night. At least we made it to 4660m … a reasonable effort. Ironically the mountain we came to see refused to clear from behind the clouds the entire time we were there, so we only have partial photos. Still very worth it.

Day 5 and 6, it had snowed over night, giving some great photos

but we only had 2 days to make it back to the road end … so we aimed for 40 km back to camp 1 on our first day down. It was a long day but the breathing got easier and we made it with 3 hours of daylight left.

Soon we were out and got a good nights sleep in Paro town before we started a 4 day drive east across the endless valleys and passes of Bhutan … see next installment (might be later today).

Walking and Waking

Yesterday we took a trip up a nearby valley to view yet another monastry and get some last minute altitude acclimatisation. On the way we encountered this bit of buddist graffiti. They had even chipped it out of the rock.

We also got our first views of some snowy peaks, no idea which ones … on our way down it decided to snow on us anyway and all the hills around the capital where dusted.

To finish the 5 days of Paro festival they hold a pre-dawn ceremony involving a “Thangka”. This is a giant appliqued tapestry the height of the temple. Hopefully you can see how big it is in the piccy. We had to get up at 2am this morning to drive an hour to the temple just so we could get these photos for you. Luckily simply being in the presence of the Thangka absolves all of our sins and guarantees myself and Keren will forgive the early morning start. All the high ranking monks from the area arrive in force and have to contend with hundreds of pilgrims pushing forward to be blessed.

  

We start our 7 days of trekking on Sunday and probably won’t be able to blog until we get back. Lots of snowy mountain shots to come in a weeks time.

Takin and Archery

Today we did another short walk and discovered the local dumping point for prayer flags. The number of flags you can see in the picture is about 1% of the flags on this ridge. They litter the ground everywhere too as the wind has destroyed many of them.

We also visited a local reserve for “Takin” the Bhutanese national animal/cow. The story of how these creatures were created is attached in a photo .. hope it is readable.

 

Finally I had a go at the local archery. I wasn’t quite ready for the local standard range to be 145m!!! So I will be going back ready for the heavy bows and with binoculars to see the other end. The locals wander infront of the target to put each other off. But the locals are mad. The white spec in the photo is the target face which is about 20cm across.

After the archery, which was a long way up a very rocky road and not quite the right terrain for a little Suzuki Alto, we headed to Richard and Caroles favorite local restaurant. The five of us ordered 7 mains, a mix of Bhutanese, Indian and Japanese style dishes with roti and rice plus a few beers. The food was delicious and all for the bank breaking amount of $30!

Tsechu and Taktshang

We just spent 2 days in Paro town so that we could go to the Paro festival (Tsechu) and the Tigers Nest monastry (Taktshang). Spending 2 days in Paro turned out to be a fairly luxurious affair. Carole had booked us into Gangtey Palace, which literally was a palace until 1907. It was an amazing old style building with the loft for drying your straw and chillies and a bar/restaurant with great views over the city. You can make a guess which we spent the most time in. Attached is a photo of part of our room, which was hand painted beautifully. I’m not quite sure what the Bhudda painted above the bed was intended to … improve … but I would hope they might warn guests if it is meant to grant triplets to all who sleep under him. I have no idea what his intentions for the deer and geese are either.

The Tsechu is a religious festival consisting of 5 days of ritual dancing and the unveiling of a huge likeness of Bhudda. It is also an excuse for people to meet from all over the country and catch up. We went along in traditional Bhutan dress, which is compulsary for all Bhutanese nationals attending. We got a very friendly reception much more than the other foreigners. Unfortunately the male standard dress is a “Gho”. It is kind of like a giant woolen dressing gown/ bath robe. It is also damned difficult to get it tied correctly. Even with the parents help we struggled and luckily the hotel staff came to the rescue. It took 3 locals to get it right! Keren wore the Kira (much easier to fit). About 60% of people wear these clothes as their standard around town clothes and all school uniforms are Gho and Kira. Of course I still didn’t get the special scarf that matches the Gho correct and since I obviously looked hopeless, more people came to my aid . see piccies.

  

We braved the crush inside and outside the Rinpung Dzong (read monastic fortress) in Paro.

 

We watched the long crazy dances, and wondered why they seemed to cage all the young monks. See piccy of dancing skeletons with monks gazing on. I think we were the youngest tourists there.

 

Afterwards we decided to climb up a steep valley 700m vertical to visit the most famous Bhutan building. The monastry called Taktshang – Tigers nest. This monastry is built over a cave about 200m up a cliff. Supposedly the Guru who brought Bhuddism to Bhutan decided that climbing a cliff and hiding (sorry meditating) in a small hole the size of an office cubicle would aid his enlightenment. Then some further enlightened monks decided building a large monastry, out of large trees and stone, over the cave on a tiny ledge, way up a cliff, would be a fine way to spend 6 years. So they did! Piccies attached. It is one of the most crazy pieces of engineering I have ever seen and the natural rock makes up many of the floors and walls.

 

In the land of the thunder dragon

Well it was 28 hours of airports and airplanes with no real sleep, including 6 hours wandering Bangkok’s new airport and trying to sleep on the cold marble floors at 2am. But, finally, we are in Bhutan at Keren’s parents place just outside the capital Thimphu. Immigration required our address, which we have discovered is Jungshina, turn right just over the bridge, opposite the cowshed! Photo of cow shed attached below . The lady feeding the cow is one of the landlord’s wives. They are fairly wealthy as far as Bhutanese are concerned but that doesn’t get you off mucking out the cows! The smaller cow is called Santa, a common Bhutanese name but named by Keren’s Mum as it was born on Christmas eve. We’ll post a link to the story she wrote the event and had published.

I have only got 30k connections that are not reliable at our base so photos may or may not be with each posting. Will try to find faster links, I’m told they do exist!

First impressions are of really friendly people who seem mostly to speak some english (at least in the city), dry mountainous scenery covered with cedar forest and bhuddist “chortens”, amazing looking houses with great decorations, huge temples “dhzong”,  CRAZY driving and dogs everywhere.

We had an awesome flight down a deep valley in a 737 which made me wonder when we would hit the ground. Keren, being far less of a wuss, found this less nerve racking. We arrived at the building (airport) in the header bar picture and found it covered in scaffolding which was being deconstructed in a manner OSH would shut them down for. See piccy.  

Tomorrow we are walking to Taktsang monastry (the tigers nest) 2 hours up a mountain edge and the Paro festival is on and we will get some great shots of local dance and crazy costumes.

24 Hours of travelling

Today is 24 hours of airports and flying. Wellington to Sydney, Sydney to Bangkok, Bangkok to Kolkata, Kolkata to Bhutan. Actually it think it is more than 24 hours.

We did an 18 km day on the third day in Wanaka and survived pretty well, during that day we made a half hearted attempt on Roy’s peak which overlooks Wanaka township but we had left it too late in the day and were running short of water by that time. Some photos will be attached as soon as i can get to a link that is more than 56k, but the really ones that count are coming up tomorrow, Bhutan.

The start!

Well we are in our third day at Wanaka, first day we simply wandered the local area after getting off the plane at Queenstown. It was about an hour over the crown range to Wanaka. We quickly found the best local recommended walks and headed to the Rob Roy glacier the second day. For 3-4 hours of effort this has to be one of the most spectacular walks available in NZ. Driving an hour from Wanaka towards MT Aspiring in stunning alpine countryside then a steady uphill walk through beach forest and arriving surrounded by glacier covered peaks in a small alpine meadow. A couple of piccies attached.

Today we went wandering into the local rock climbing zone for an hour or 2. This gave us some great shots of lake Wanaka. I will be needing another trip soon to try the cliffs.

Of course we had to unwind after such difficult days, and Keren was roaming dangerously with a camera.